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Engine Mounts 200 20V

Write up by Todd and Scott J.  Photos by Todd


Engine Mount(s)

To replace on a turbo car. Remove the top of the airbox (might as well change the filter now). There are 3 phillips screws or 8 mm body bolts that hold the front lower heat shield between the turbo and motor mount. Soak them with PB blaster... I use a impact driver on them, but a good long #2 phillips or long ext. w/8mm socket will do the job. Wrestle that heat shield out (PITA, it goes out and comes in only one way). Now you are looking at the top of the motor mount. From this vantage point you can easily reach w/a socket set.  If you lost the lower cup, you will need to lock it with vice grips as you turn the top nut with 17mm socket.

Install reverse of removal. To raise the engine, put a wood block on the oil pan and raise the engine so you can tighten the new mount down. For only 3 attaching points, it's not a fun job. Many times I've had to cut them off.

HTH

Scott Justusson

Reply to Replacing Mounts:

Changing Motor Mounts

1.       Car on ramps.

2.       To replace on a turbo car. Remove the top of the airbox (might as well change the filter now). There are 3 phillips screws or 8 mm body bolts that hold the front lower heat shield between the turbo and motor mount. Soak them with PB blaster... I use an impact driver on them, but a good long #2 phillips or long ext. w/8mm socket will do the job. Wrestle that heat shield out (PITA, it goes out and comes in only one way). Now you are looking at the top of the motor mount. From this vantage point you can easily reach w/a socket set.

3.       Put a Floor Jack with a wood 2 x 4 on the motor as close to the mount as possible.  If you are replacing both mounts at the same time place the floor jack w/wood 2 x 4 on oil pan to lift the motor.   If you can't usa a floor jack, you can use a 2X4; from above with chain/rope (this keeps the motor from stressing the opposite mount during swap, and keeps mount close to frame rail to put on 15mm nuts).

4.       Remove upper mount nut (17mm I think) may want to soak it a couple of days with WD-40, it tends to catch water by design. The problem is, if the mount is spinning in the cup, you might have some time getting nut off.

5.       Remove lower mount nuts (2X15mm). The engine is now resting on jack or hanging on rope and the trans mount only.

6.       Pull mount down and out.

7.       Install new mount from below, 15mm nuts on first.

8.       Install top nuts, torque to spec.

9.       Remove 2X4/jacks.

10.   Off ramps.

Transmission Mounts - REPLACEMENT:

On high mileage vehicles, over 120-150k miles, you need to support the rear end of the transmission with a jack stand, and then remove the bolts for the rear/side transmission mounts. There is a small heat shield on the passenger side trans mount that needs to be removed to gain access to the trans mount bolt on that side. This heat shield is held on with three screws (8mm head size).

After removing the rear trans mounts (two 13mm hex head bolts/nuts) replace w/new and reverse process.

 

I just replaced the transmission mounts on my 200q20v a few nights ago.
It's a pain, but clearly possible. Do the drivers side first. There's
plenty of access to get an end wrench on the tops of the bolts (17 mm
for the center one, 13 mm for the outer ones).
 
The heat shield on the passenger side has three screws (8 mm heads) 
holding it on. Two are easy to get at...one is hard. Also, getting a 
wrench on the tops of the bolts is more difficult. If you reach through 
a hole in the the inner fender, you can get the 17 mm bolt fine, and one 
of the 13 mm bolts too. The last one is a lot more difficult.
 
Alternatively, you could pull the catalytic converters off (good time to
check them for blockage I suppose) and the tranny mount job would be a
piece of cake.
 
I replaced the engine mounts a few days ago.
This job can easily be done alone apart from doing the "Stage 1" or
subframe.
Aside from getting the mounts be sure to get the bolts and nuts. You
will have 2 bolts and 5 nuts to get. 
Get the ETKA pic and parts list first and order the nuts and bolts from
Clair Audi or from an local dealer.
I ordered a subframe hardware kit and the nuts were the wrong size. They
were 16mm and should have been 15mm and I didn't get the bolts.  So I
had to reuse the the old nuts and bolts which I didnt really want to do
as some of the bolts were degraded but I had no choice as I was in the
middle of the job.
A lesson learned. 
I usually always get the parts list and ETKA pic before I do a job and
replace all of the hardware.
This time I trusted what was sent to me and got into trouble. It took me
longer as I had to remove what I had to remove the wrong size nuts and
re-install the right size. 
This job can easily be done apart from doing the subframe and in my
opinion should be done separately.
I put the car on ramps and then jacked up the engine under the oil pan
using a 2x4 between the jack and the oil pan.
It is best to remove the 1 on each side 17mm  nuts on the top of each
mount first. If you remove the side nuts first you will have the mount
spinning problem.
Then remove the 2 on each side 17mm bolts. The nuts are 2 on each side
15mm.
I put a a bendable ratchet with 10" extension on the bolts and secured
it against the top base of the radiator and then loosened the nuts with
a 15mm reversible ratchet wrench. I just bought this Craftsman set a few
weeks before an they really came in handy in tight spaces.
The drivers side was a snap.
The mount on the drivers side was completely broken. The top screw mount
was broken from the mount itself. This would not have been evident
without removing it and inspecting.
On the passenger side I took the airbox and heatshield out which was a
cakewalk.
On this side passenger the mount was degraded but still functionable. It
got replaced as well.
What was strange was after I got it done and did a test drive I got 1.8
a few times where in the past I was getting only 1.7

PHOTOS:

Cold Air Duct screws

Mount Bolt Exposed

Photos in no particular order as I'm trying to match them with the procedure.


Removing the Heat Shields

Hand tucked under the Turbo from above.

Heat Shield #1 access bolt


Motor Mount bottom exposed

This photo is upside down.  Looking UP from the ground.

Heat Shield #2 From above with Air box removed.

HTH - Scott by BOSTON

Thanks guys for your submission and input!